To make cotton homespun, the first thing that must be done is to pull the seeds from the cotton, either by hand or with the use of cards. Then, the carded cotton needs to be spun, dyed, and woven. It is estimated that it would take an estimated 360 hours of labor to make 30 yards of homespun fabric.
By the time of the Civil War, home spinning and weaving had fallen out of common practice. Diaries and newspapers of the time mention women taking spinning wheels out of the attic and learning to spin and weave. In the South, many of the larger homes had slaves who did their spinning and weaving.
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The homespun dress became one of the symbols of the hard scrabble life many Southerners experienced during the Civil War. But before the Union blockade made homespun imperative, it was a sign of pride. Just as Americans had shown their opposition to the British by producing homespun fabrics during the American Revolution, Southern women made their homespun into a statement of their patriotism to the south.
In Where Duty Calls, my middle grade novel set in New Mexico during the Civil War, the Confederates encamped near Fort Craig a few nights before the Battle of Valverde are sitting around a campfire when they sing “The Homespun Dress.” One of the soldiers brags that he is going to pull down the Union flag from Fort Craig and make a dress out of it to present to his wife. While that wouldn’t strictly be a homespun dress, it surely would have been a source of great pride for the soldier and wife.
by Carrie Belle Sinclair
(born 1839)
Oh, yes, I am a Southern girl, And glory in the name, And boast it with far greater pride
Than glittering wealth and fame.
We envy not the Northern girl Her robes of beauty rare,
Though diamonds grace her snowy neck
And pearls bedeck her hair.
CHORUS: Hurrah! Hurrah! For the sunny South so dear; Three cheers for the homespun dress The Southern ladies wear!
The homespun dress is plain, I know, My hat's palmetto, too; But then it shows what Southern girls For Southern rights will do.
We send the bravest of our land To battle with the foe,
And we will lend a helping hand-- We love the South, you know
CHORUS
Now Northern goods are out of date; And since old Abe's blockade,
We Southern girls can be content With goods that's Southern made.
We send our sweethearts to the war; But, dear girls, never mind--
Your soldier-love will ne'er forget The girl he left behind.--
CHORUS
The soldier is the lad for me-- A brave heart I adore;
And when the sunny South is free, And when fighting is no more,
I'll choose me then a lover brave From all that gallant band;
The soldier lad I love the best Shall have my heart and hand.--
CHORUS
The Southern land's a glorious land, And has a glorious cause;
Then cheer, three cheers for Southern rights, And for the Southern boys!
We scorn to wear a bit of silk, A bit of Northern lace,
But make our homespun dresses up, And wear them with a grace.--
CHORUS
And now, young man, a word to you: If you would win the fair,
Go to the field where honor calls, And win your lady there.
Remember that our brightest smiles Are for the true and brave,
And that our tears are all for those Who fill a soldier's grave.--CHORUS
from
http://www.civilwarpoetry.org/confederate/songs/homespun.html
For more information on homespun, see txcwcivilian.org/homespun/